Be appropriately equipped when reducing fiddle leaf figs. I am going for option 2. The wilted leaves will help protect the branches if we get another cold snap. No plant "prefers" to be grown tight. Q. I'm not suggesting that's the case with your plant, just that the tendency is for trees grown indoors to look quite unnatural if left to their own devices ..... and that needn't be. I would also start giving the plant lots of outdoor time. I recently (just yesterday) accidentally left this plant outside for too long, I was only intending to leave it out for under 30 minutes and forgot about it for 2 hours. Example - a plant growing in full sun conditions and 85* ambient temps at the nursery might be being pushed at luxury (fertility) levels of 1,000 - 1,500 ppm TDS. Fertilizers with a 3:1:2 NPK ratio (24-8-16, 12-4-8, 9-3-6, are all 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers) are common for a reason. If I cut the tree off at say the 3 foot mark (where no leaves are present), would the tree sprout new growth? Currently I’m dosing a light liquid fertilizerto help with the growth. You can use an electronic moisture meter, or a simple wooden dowel or bamboo kebob skewer. Curing the effects of too much water in the soil starts by using a soil that doesn't hold too much water, and by default, not enough air. This holds true even if the plant were to be planted out (in the landscape). Here's my question. Give it as much light as you can, make sure the soil is neither too wet nor too dry, and be patient. Place the Fiddle Leaf Fig cutting in a container with clean water or dip it into a rooting hormone and wait for about 6 to 8 weeks for roots to develop. My fiddle leaf is pushing new leaves but the bottom-most leaves are starting to turn yellow and fall off. Anamika - your F lyrata is better equipped to handle soil conditions slightly too dry than too moist, so it would be to your advantage if you withhold water until you can barely detect moisture on the tell you're using. You CAN shorten the tree now, and can be sure a new branch will form in the leaf axil closest to the pruning cut - the top leaf. Hello. Try not to spray too close because u can end up have water shapes brown rings on the younger leaves. The trunk is not getting wider, though. So now my sad tree is missing half of its bark on one side! Once you start getting branching, you should religiously pinch those branches back to 2 leaves as soon as the branch develops 3 mature leaves. Hi guys - my FLF is looking great but I wanted an extra branch, so I notched it above a node about a month ago and nothing has happened so far. They'll get a lot more sun on the north elevation than the east, but the east can always be a plan you can fall back on. If they aren't carrying their weight in terms of energy production, chemical messengers will tell the plant to shed them. Potting up is little more than putting the plant in a larger pot and filling in the void at the bottom and sides with fresh soil. Today, you can start making a plan. I would wait till at least the middle of March, then cut it back quite drastically, like to maybe 1' from the ground, let it grow back, and start pruning it yearly as it fills out, to get it to and keep it at a nice size. So, where do you live and have you considered what form you'd like to move your plant toward? Could I cut some notches down lower on the trunk to encourage some branches to grow down lower? I also haven't been fertilizing that much this winter. It's probable but not carved in stone that new branches will occur in the axils of the second and third branches from the top. If you repot a healthy tropical ficus in fall or winter, it might take several months to recover to the point top growth can resume. I'd say the light is good but not ideal. My fiddle leaf fig as you can see in the photo above was growing strait up on one branch or trunk, I had seen photos of other trees growing different branches and had even tried notching (where you make a notch with a sharp knife in the trunk) to get my tree to branch but nothing had worked. Now I just moved it to our house today. So not to confuse folks, in this case POS = 'point of sale'. Al - fads come and go, but F lyrata has been riding atop a wave of popularity for at least the last 3 years, maybe more. And how many of them at a time? Matthew - First of all, YOU didn't kill the tree, the weather did. Cymbidium orchid - black spots on the leaves. In most cases, if a layer fails, it's because the wound healed over and there is no collection of auxin and carbohydrates in the tissues immediately above the layer site. Can I prune to encourage growth in the middle part of the plant to help it get some taller growth? Eventually, the large leaf on the soil cutting dried up and fell off. Next, place your dominant hand under the leaf as close to the stem as possible. And here is the beautiful new growth since I got it in late January (though now it has stopped and the tiny bud here doesn't seem to have changed in about a month): I look forward to learning even more, so thanks in advance for your advice and expertise :). I've given his leaves a clean, and my plan was to leave him for a couple of months to acclimatise to his new environment in front of a sunny window and while I work out what his watering needs are. Thank you!!!!!! How It Happens, and When and How to Prune, New This Week: How to Punch Up a Modern White Living Room, Container Garden Basics: How and When to Water Potted Plants, Rubber Tree Light Colored Leaf Spots & Curling. If I put the clipped branches in water, will they root, so I can have two more plants? If you decide to go that route, Read This, then ask any questions you need answered. also wondering if my location is good enough. Doesn't that sound backward? I sometimes by an interesting tree for bonsai and discover it has ugly roots, so I layer the whole top of the tree right off of it's roots. I also get spots like that occasionally on mature leaves presumably from watering issues. I posted elsewhere but this thread seems to be where it’s at. I've tried notching a few branches and pruning one off to root in case that plant doesn't make it. From what I’ve read I gather it doesn’t have efficient light and may be getting to much water (the pot doesn’t seem to drain very well). F lyrata can easily be acclimated to the photo load received via full sun exposure through a west window anywhere in the N hemisphere, but it might not be able to handle passive solar gain without moving air to disrupt the boundary layer (of air) that surrounds leaves. Most houseplants use about 6X as much nitrogen as phosphorous and about 3/5 as much potassium as nitrogen. How to Prune Fiddle Leaf Fig. Don’t bother with the alcohol wipe downs, because I tried with no results. With your lyrata, I would advise not doing anything much at this point. I plan to pot up. I have a tight space and this lean takes up a lot of room. • Make your cuts at least an inch away from the main trunk. The brownrusting on the leaves are no more and the trunk is much thicker, it’s able tosupport its self. Yes, I am certainly expanding my limits but I trust your advice. I clipped a section off the top and potted it. One day Filbert the Fiddle Leaf Fig became too tall. Summering the plant outdoors would really make a difference, if that's an option? If metabolism rate increase, plant need new leaves etc and start growing. If you want to go bold, you could pot up to a significantly bigger pot with ballast in the bottom. Learning to work with the tree's annual growth cycle is easier on the tree and makes the grower feel better about making the allowance. I've layered 4" trunks, so your tree should be a snap. Try reading this. It's a little under 4 ft total height. To pinch a branch, wait until it has 3 mature leaves on it, then pinch (prune) it back to 2 leaves. Should I just cut back where I've marked it in blue? Propagating Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees in Soil. I've decided to trim off the bottom of the root mass - should I do this now, or wait until Spring/Summer? Too, where a poor soil makes fertilizing something of a helter skelter proposition, good soils make it monkey easy. I put it in water and baby roots appeared. It's better to allow the plant to suffer some small amount of stress from root congestion and repot when the plant is about to be at its most robust state in the growth cycle than to repot when the plant is just trying to make it until next spring when it's at its best. Strike a dramatic chord in a minimalist scene or a country note in a rustic setting — fiddleleaf fig plants harmonize with any style, A full form and delicious fruits make this Middle Eastern tree a favorite in gardens around the world, Make a unique, unexpected statement in any space with this precious metallic finish, Confused about soil moisture, the best time to water and what watering device to use? For those reasons, it's better to root your cuttings in a well-aerated medium, kept damp/moist (never wet/soggy), in open shade and out of the wind. That's important. I keep the soil moist and allow them lots of light. For a bushier plant, cut stems wherever you want to promote branching. Even plants that LOOK good can be losing out on an extreme measure of potential; and in plants, lost potential can never be regained under ANY circumstances. If you decide to go that route, rub off any/all new buds occurring anywhere but on what will be the new leader. For instance this sequence shows a Ficus retusa pruned very hard in June: allowed to grow wild (unpruned or wired) until Aug: when it was pruned a second time and wired: I can show you ficus after ficus treated in the same way: Working on a bonsai is actually much more difficult/dangerous to the tree than working on a tree grown under conventional container culture because the small pots and soil volumes can quickly limit vitality and growth. You’ll need a section of branch (or trunk) that’s at least 4″ long. If I need to cut off the top, where should I cut? I thought I read something somewhere about the leaves sticking together when they were unfurling and damaging the leaf. That approach guarantees ALL growth is the tightest the plant can produce within other cultural influences. It is starting to branch out along the top, but not sure what I can do to help it. It would prefer 15 hours of direct sun outdoors if it had a choice. Use a 'tell' to keep informed about moisture levels deep in the pot, and only water when the soil is getting near completely dry there. Too, misting your plant is very ineffectual, unless you're purpose is reducing the number of mites that call the plant home. Moved into a new place and found a large FL tree in the backyard. The original plant still has a weird shape, not sure there is anything I can do at this point, but she's doing well. Don't worry - it's not a big deal. Hello all! The Schultz product (10-15-10), after the calculations are made for how phosphorous is reported on the label, supplies about 4x as much P as the plant wants or can possibly use (as a function of N), and 18-20-8 supplies about 3x as much as it wants/can use. We and our dying buddies would greatly appreciate some help!!!!! Here are some photos of the FLF in the late afternoon on a cloudy day. I also cut both because they were getting too tall, and I have a question. What time of year is best to attempt pruning? Gave it a go with the air layering. You'll be amazed at the uptick in vitality that accompanies plants grown outdoors. Your plant has evidence of oedema, a physiological disorder, in addition to the necrotic leaf margins. Hi there, I'm really hoping to help my FLF. This can be done with very large stock. Good roots are one of the most important feature of show quality trees. Parent Fiddle is definitely looking better and seems very healthy. You can see the new branches growing in the axils (crotches) of the two leaves. It lost a whole side of leaves, I believe possibly from cold window drafts (I live in Chicago). I'd start fertilizing regularly with an appropriate fertilizer, and plan on repotting sometime between Memorial Day and Father's Day in '18. Right up in front of your brightest unobstructed window will be best. Any significant pruning should be done in the summer months - mid-Dec thru mid-Mar, for you, but you might want to hold off if you just repotted, until next Dec, other than some light pruning to keep the plant in bounds. Using some ballast in the bottom of the pot (quite different from a 'drainage layer') could prove to be very helpful, though it won't fix compaction or a general lack of air porosity. So, before you start the work, have a plan you can stick to. Every fiddle leaf fig plant owner wants their ficus lyrata to grow into a tall, tree-shaped statement. This represents the difference between a plant surviving at the outer limits of what it's programmed (genetically) to tolerate and one that's growing in its 'sweet spot'. HELP, My Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree is Dying - PLEASE HELP. Are there any I should remove? I would deeply appreciate any advice. Will, The new growth on my FLF dried off. My concern is when all the brown leaves fall off I will be left with those bare branches with no leaves on them. Oedema is exacerbated by anything cultural that slows or limits transpiration - high humidity, low light levels, and cool temps are some of the things that contribute to oedema. It is a genetic trait of plants in the mulberry family (Moraceae) that each successive leaf on any given branch will be larger at maturity than the preceding leaf on that branch. I need help with my fiddle-leaf fig. Your advice would be very appreciated! Thankfully, these marks will slowly fade as the plant continues to grow. I often talk about how people feel obligated to save every cell their plants ever made, as though each are sacred and all have the potential to erase your plants' viability should you inadvertently kill a cell or two, or commit the sin of removing branches and/or foliage. Kat, judging by the placement of your Ficus Lyrata, it’s not getting enough light. I did it 3 weeks ago and I just cut the branches off and potted them. You can prune now. What happened is technically called photo-oxidation and commonly called sunburn. Right now, I have one branch resting on the window and the other is semi-supported by the other branch/trunk. The longer the tree grows without restraint or control over how energy flows in the plant, the more difficult it will be to bring the tree back under control. If you try notching, why not notch about 1/2" above old (leaf) bundle scars. When keeping the best interest of the plant in mind, that you discover it's time to repot isn't reason enough to repot the day after. Soils that allow the grower to water properly (so they are flushing the soil at each watering) eliminate a plethora of problems waiting to happen. I got it in late January and after my second watering it developed a few very small brown marks on the edges of the leaves. Look for green tissue beneath the outer bark by scraping with a finger nail - if you see green, the branch is still live, if you see brown, the branch is dead. Should I put a stake in there? If being subjected to the low temps is all that's wrong, and the tree was reasonably healthy before the chilling, the only reason it shouldn't recover would be related to what happens between now and recovery. And I also live in Central Illinois. It's not very attractive, wondering if I should do something about the bottom leaves growing so close to the soil? That's going to leave a really bare main tree.... :( But if its for the best overall health of the tree, I would consider. If you're religious about practicing that habit, your tree will start to grow fuller and fuller. The 2 branches should have been pinched when their length was about 1/2 of what it is now. Eco oil makes ur leaves the nice glossy too! While the thought of fiddle leaf fig pruning might seem challenging, cutting back fiddle leaf figs is actually really easy. ( It’s 67cm / 26 inch and is currently under stress with brown edges and rusting.). There’s two different styles of notching. So a year later... my FLF is definitely stronger. We know that F lyrata likes a very fast draining soil with lots of air porosity, it likes warm temps, it doesn't like cold drafts, root congestion, or a nutritional supplementation program you can't maintain control of. Also, see my FLF below. I am propagating FLF leaves (no stem or trunk is in the clipping, only the leaf). As for humidity, I've cared for hundreds of FLF's, and I don't find humidity to be of much concern to them. If it did, Mother nature would have arranged for roots to occupy a little pot-shaped root ball directly under the plant's stem. I'd like to see an image of what you have going on, to see if it's roughly the same as my mental image of your plant, before I suggest pruning strategies. Keep in mind that just because the plant grew it is no reason you have to keep it. Oh no!Will take your advice about keeping to three leaves per branch on the new leader. They occur and spread as a result of a root system that is not able to function normally. Hi everyone! When it first came to live with me, a few of the leaves browned and fell off. Roxanne’s sister had a fiddle leaf fig for over 15 years! No not be afraid to prune the top or the roots. During this point of the growth cycle, the tree's energy reserves are very high and growing, and the tree's ability to make food is peaking. While the thought of fiddle leaf fig pruning may seem intimidating, cutting back fiddle leaf figs is actually very easy. Your do-over branch (lowest on the trunk) was supposed to be left long and tied to the main trunk so it's closer to vertical; this, in preparation for chopping the heavier trunk immediately above what was to be the new leader. For honesty's sake, a hard pruning isn't in the best interest of the tree's health, but it is definitely in the best interest of its future appearance. So should I defoliate and prune? Looking at some videos for air layering. Ana - Normally I would say that dust on a newly purchased plant is just that - dust - or possibly mineral build up from the watering at the growers. Filted sun - most people get the wrong idea as to what this means. Repotting Ficus (other than hardy Ficus) should also be done a couple of weeks before the tree's most robust period of growth. Try increasing the light. This process meant it was about 2.5-3 weeks between watering and sadly the brown and blackish spots on the leaves have continued to get worse after every watering. My question is how can I prune this tree to support split branching and thicken up the trunk? understanding how soils work, followed by understanding how plants work, are representative of the largest steps forward you'll likely make as a container gardener. Thanks! Pruning Your Fiddle Leaf Fig. Timing heavy work like hard pruning and repotting is best done in consideration of the plant's natural rhythms. I took a chance on it because it’s rough looking. I'm not intimating that's the case here, only that high salinity is still very much a potential cause/contributor to the necrotic leaf margins. Usually my ficus drops a lot of leaves over winter (we are in New England). Could never see the buggers even when I wiped a leaf down and inspected the cloth. Without any above light, the plant won’t want to grow in that direction. Hello Tapla:I followed your instructions and just separated my 2 FLF. There are several links I can suggest if you have interest? Try cutting on back on the amount of water you give your plant each week and see if you notice a difference. I could move the plants outside for the summer under the porch overhang if that would help. For that reason, I would consider using a wooden dowel rod as a 'tell' - to 'tell' you when it's time to water or if water should be withheld. Some of the earlier leaves browned in spots and fell off of the tree. I live in Washington state and I know you typically prune around Father's Day. I then transferred it to soil two weeks ago and have been fertilizing. I've had my baby for about a year and it's been facing the same NE window the entire year. I don't have a sense of how bad the rootbound conditions are, so I can't say a partial repot now is the best course or not. 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Planted out ( in the least amount of water. ) same problem about. 5 days or days I ’ m not sure why but the bottom-most leaves are quite hard the! Plan now is to repot with a garden hose on top and potted it time... ) water. ) that issue branches have 3 mature leaves, except for next.